Anycubic Kobra X Setup and First Print: What I Found

The Anycubic Kobra X was straightforward to assemble in my first session: I spent roughly 20 minutes on the mechanical setup, then let the printer complete its guided calibration. The first single-color and multicolor prints adhered well and finished successfully. The main trade-off is that it still arrives as a partly assembled, open-frame machine, so it deserves a deliberate setup rather than a rushed first print.

This is an initial setup and first-print guide based on my hands-on unboxing video and early test log. It is not a long-term reliability verdict; those conclusions need more material changes, longer jobs, and week-one use.

Quick verdict from the first session

If you are comparing current machines, treat this as proof that the initial path from box to a working multicolor print was promising—not a substitute for the longer-term review that follows.

Check current Kobra X availability through Anycubic (affiliate link).

What was in the box

The Kobra X arrived with the gantry separate from the base, so some assembly is required. In my box I found the spool holders, instructions, sample filament, tools, power cable, and build plate along with the printer components.

Before building anything, I removed the wire ties and packing foam. That sounds obvious, but it is worth doing carefully: the early steps involve releasing transport hardware around the motion system before the printer can be assembled and calibrated.

My setup order

The order below mirrors the hands-on sequence in the video. Following it makes the cable routing and filament path easier to verify before power-on.

• Unlock the Z-axis by removing the two plastic transport pieces, each held by three screws.
• Move the build plate forward, remove the tape covering the connection area, seat the gantry, and install the four larger screws on each side.
• Fit the left and right decorative covers, then tilt the printer back far enough to connect the labeled cables and the stepper-motor cable.
• Route the connected cable bundle back through its guide, secure it with the wire tie, and click the cover into place.
• Install the purge wiper, spool holders, and PTFE tubes. Match tube positions 1 through 4 at the extruder instead of guessing.

• Remove the remaining protective tape, install the build plate, connect power, and begin the on-screen setup.

One small workflow note showed up when I installed the spool holders: changing an inner spool means releasing the clip and moving that holder forward. It saves space compared with a wider side-mounted layout, but it adds an extra physical step when you are swapping material.

Connect the printer before the first job

After power-on, I selected the language and region, connected the Kobra X to Wi-Fi, signed into the app, and scanned the on-screen QR code to register the printer. The guided setup then checks that the transport parts were removed and that the build plate is installed before calibration begins.

The printer indicated that calibration should take about 35 minutes. I would budget for that time rather than trying to squeeze a first print into the same short window as unboxing. The mechanical build was about 20 minutes for me before calibration.

Use the calibration workflow if you want a deliberate baseline before changing slicer settings.

First prints: what actually happened

I started with the built-in spider simply to confirm that the machine was functioning. That print completed with no issues. I then printed a poop chute, which is a practical addition for a single-nozzle multicolor printer because it helps contain purge waste.

For the first multicolor test, I used a black bat-cat model with color changes around the eyes. It did not require much purge compared with the next print, but it was a useful way to confirm that the material changes were working before moving to a model with more frequent swaps.

The mini dragon was the more demanding multicolor check because it changes filament repeatedly through the model. Adhesion remained solid in the video: nothing lifted from the plate, and the finished result looked good. The trade-off is expected for this style of machine: frequent single-nozzle color changes create substantial purge waste.

What the continuing test log adds

The launch video establishes the initial setup and first-print result. Since then, I have begun saving actual Kobra X job records so later settings guidance can be evidence-based rather than copied from a generic profile.

One documented dragon run used the stock Kobra X profile in Anycubic Slicer with a 0.4 mm hardened-steel nozzle, a PEI plate, Anycubic PLA, and firmware 1.2.0.6. The recorded job used a 0.16 mm layer height, 220°C nozzle temperature, 60°C bed temperature, 15% infill, supports and brim enabled, 0.8 mm retraction, two perimeters, 0.42 mm perimeter width, 60 mm/s perimeter speed, and 300 mm/s travel.

That job looked good overall, with some stringing around the top of the ears. A repeat dragon with the same settings showed similar but less severe stringing and no other reported issues. This is useful evidence for the test log, but it is not yet enough data to present as a universal Kobra X PLA profile.

Use the retraction guide to test stringing methodically rather than changing several slicer values at once.

Strengths and trade-offs from day one

The strongest early result was simple: the Kobra X went from a partly assembled box to working single-color and multicolor prints without a failure in my first session. The app and desktop slicer both behaved well for me, and the hotend display that shows the active filament is a genuinely useful touch when the printer is changing colors.

The main compromises are also clear. It is open-frame, so it is not the same starting point as an enclosed printer for materials that benefit from a more controlled environment. Its spools are exposed, so dry storage or a dryer matters more in a humid workspace. And while the inner spool-holder design keeps the overall footprint down, swapping those inner spools is less convenient than an easier-access layout.

See practical filament drying temperatures and times before assuming a print issue is only a slicer problem.

Who this first look is for

This guide is useful if you want to see the real assembly path and a first multicolor result before deciding whether the Kobra X fits your space and workflow. It is especially relevant if you are comfortable doing a modest amount of assembly and want to understand the difference between a low-cost multicolor entry point and a fully enclosed, more finished system.

Wait for the longer-term review if your buying decision depends on sustained reliability, large amounts of multicolor printing, frequent spool changes, specialty filaments, or a verdict on long-run operating friction. Those questions need more than an unboxing session to answer honestly.

First-day checklist

• Remove every transport part, wire tie, protective film, and tape before starting the guided setup.

• Confirm the gantry and cable connections before installing the cable cover.
• Match every PTFE tube to its numbered extruder position.
• Run the full guided calibration and inspect the first layer before making multiple tuning changes.
• Start with a simple built-in job, then a modest multicolor model before committing to a long, purge-heavy project.
• Keep open filament dry, especially when it will remain loaded on the machine.

Plan purge-heavy multicolor jobs before you print them with the multicolor planner.

FAQ

Does the Anycubic Kobra X arrive fully assembled?

No. In my box, the gantry was separate from the base and the spool holders, PTFE tubes, purge wiper, and wiring still needed to be installed. The mechanical portion took me about 20 minutes before calibration.

How long does Kobra X calibration take?

The guided setup on my printer estimated about 35 minutes for calibration. Treat that as part of the initial setup time rather than an optional step.

Did the first multicolor prints work?

Yes. The initial bat-cat and mini dragon completed, and I saw no adhesion failure in the video. The dragon also made the normal purge-waste trade-off of a single-nozzle multicolor workflow easy to see.

Do you need a filament dryer for the Kobra X?

The Kobra X keeps its filament out in the open. In a humid workspace, a dryer or dry-storage workflow is a sensible part of keeping material ready to print; it is not a substitute for diagnosing a mechanical or slicer problem correctly.

Is this a Kobra X review?

It is an initial first-look and setup guide. The longer-term review needs more successful prints, material changes, and ownership time before it can make reliable claims about sustained use.

Related next steps

Once you have a stable first layer, the next useful move is not to change everything at once. Build a repeatable baseline, then test temperature, flow, and retraction one variable at a time. That makes it possible to tell whether a later problem is material condition, machine behavior, or a slicer adjustment.

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